Off to Maasai land - July 30, 2009

After a short flight back to Nairobi and an evening at the LMS Guesthouse again, we set off with Willis for the three hour drive to Merrueshi to spend time in a Maasai village. This village is still very traditional, and is working with the Maasai Association to balance the demands of the modern world with the preservation of their rich culture. The leading energy behind this Association is Katuta Ole Maimai Hamisi. His own words on the Maasai Association website tell his story most clearly. He currently works for six months of the year for the Woodland Park Zoo managing their African Savannah exhibit, and the other six months of the year he returns to his home village in Merrueshi.

In addition to the projects related to food security, education, water and health that are listed on the Maasai Association website, the village also runs a small eco-tourism business, bringing in just a few (under 40) visitors a year to experience life in a Maasai village. We were privileged to be among that group this year, in part, because Tim and Katuta have become friends.

Arriving in Merrueshi, we were greeted by a group of Maasai warriors and women. Three of these warriors, Moloke, Kwenya and Loorpapit, were assigned to us for the duration of our stay, leading us out in the early mornings on walks to see animals and giving us lessons about what it means to be Maasai. Samuel, one of the junior elders, was also incredibly helpful, providing skillful translation during my interviews and insights into the cultural practices of the Maasai. Their generosity of spirit made the stay in Merrueshi magical.

We stayed in the small Simba Camp, a collection of small huts (very comfortable), a bath/shower house (with warm showers heated by burning scrap wood) and the Opoloi, a large covered veranda/gathering space where we ate the delicious food cooked by Edward our chef and spent time talking with the warriors and the elder women, swapping stories and songs.

Trading stories and songs with the Maasai warriors and women was a highlight of this trip. One evening, after the warriors had danced for us, we gathered in the Opoloi. On a whim, I taught the warriors the chorus part to a Zulu song that Juba Marimba sings, Juba M'boleka. Soon they were singing while I laid out the lead line over it - Maasai warriors and a muzungu singing a song about the dove carrying messages of remembrance from the mines in South Africa to the miner's homeland.